When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.
This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.
“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.
However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.
It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.
Escritora apasionada y viajera incansable, Elena comparte sus experiencias para inspirar a otros en su camino de autodescubrimiento.